UK Wheel Building Specifications
Thank you for your interest in building/rebuilding a Hunt wheel, we are grateful for your support. This document is designed to assist you, not tell you exactly how to build a wheel, because as a qualified mechanic you already know that. The document takes you through the steps showing the tolerance and expectations we work to and helps to point you in the right direction regarding the information that is required during a repair, rebuild or build. This document is for steel-spoked HUNT wheels only. For carbon-spoked wheels please refer back to us before commencing any work.
Before you begin working with the wheel there are a few pieces of information that you need to know. Some of the information is constant, but some is model-specific so needs to be checked - please get in touch via email or live chat, we are always happy to help.
- Spoke tension (this is given in kgf), is for the shortest spokes in the wheel (disc side for front/drive side for rear), the tension of the longer spokes will naturally be correct once the wheel is in dish and the shorter spokes are at tension. Spoke tension is an average.
A word on spoke tension meters: All spoke tension meters are not created equal. At Hunt Bike Wheels our tension meters are manufactured and then calibrated by the spoke manufacturer for a given model of spoke. Using the same meter on varying spoke types will give different readings. On top of this, each meter is recalibrated whenever our wheel builders begin a new batch of wheels/different model. This ensures accuracy. As a wheel builder, you need to be confident that you are achieving an acceptably accurate result, as correct tension is vital.
- Spoke prep – most of our spoke threads are treated with Loctite 248 before assembly and Loctite 290 when the wheel is complete. This should be checked.
- Lacing patterns – this will be self-explanatory in some cases, but if you are building from scratch it will of course help.
- Expected tolerance – axial and radial runout should be within 0.3mm for road wheels and 0.45mm for MTB, but it’s worth checking. Dish should be accurate to within 1mm.
- We have a comprehensive supply of spares, so whatever you need, just ask. It is best to err on the side of caution with replacing components. For example, in the case of a rim replacement, unless the wheel is fairly new it makes sense to replace the customer’s spokes and nipples – we can usually get these items to you quickly and our goal is customer satisfaction.
- Assemble the wheel as per our specification (including correct spoke-prep) ensuring that spokes are laced correctly, and the rim and hub are orientated properly (including logos).
- Bring the wheel up to the required tension and make sure that it conforms to the expected tolerance radially and axially.
- Ensure the wheel is correctly dished and pay attention to any special instructions regarding this as dish may differ depending on the bike the wheel is to be fitted to (e.g. Cannondale Ai).
- Ensure the wheel is destressed correctly and again check that the wheel meets our standards of trueness. Destress again if adjustments have been made.
- Apply any Loctite/Threadlock as specified, wipe the wheel down and you are done.
Thanks very much for your support, don’t hesitate to get in touch if you need anything at all.
The wheel-building procedure should only be carried out by professionally trained mechanics with their own public liability or other appropriate insurance in place, and entirely at their own risk.
Any individual carrying out the wheel building procedure is solely liable for the building and/or rebuilding of any wheel and should ensure that they follow the guidance and safety instructions carefully so as not to hurt or injure themselves or others.
Hunt Bike Wheels shall have no liability to any individual using this wheel building specification document in relation to the building and/or rebuilding of any wheel, except where caused by Hunt Bike Wheels’s negligence.
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