The process below should be carried out by a professional wheel builder/bike shop only. The process differs to traditional steel spokes and requires a different set of tools. If you need support with your UD Carbon Spoke wheels, please contact us via the technical support form here or speak to us via LiveChat - which can be found on the bottom right of the website.
Need to order the parts featured in this guide? Head to our Spares page here. Our guide to using the Spares Finder is here.
Tools required:
Spoke Tension Meter
Loctite 638
Process:
- Remove the rim tape from the wheel. Along with any rotors and cassettes to increase access.
- If replacing a spoke, remove the affected spoke. If the broken spoke is still under tension you will need to release the tension in the spoke. You can do this by holding the mandrel that is sticking out from the rim that looks like a nipple, using the 3.4mm spoke key to hold it. You can then use your 5.5mm Hex nipple wrench to slot onto the nipple inside the rim. You will need to rotate the nipple anticlockwise to remove the tension.
- Thread the new spoke through the hub flange and then into the rim via the spoke hole.
- Thread the nipple on to spoke head through the rim bed.
- Start tightening the nipple (The nipple tightens in the traditional manner of adding tension by twisting the nipple wrench clockwise from the direction you are facing and removing by twisting anti-clockwise).
- At this point start the process of tensioning and trueing the wheel back to spec in the wheel jig, holding the spoke straight with the 3.4mm spoke key.
- Keep making small adjustments until the spokes are of an even tension and the wheel is running true radially and laterally.
- Finally check the wheel is still dished central and within tolerance. We build all wheels to >0.30 mm of horizontal and Vertical run-out.
Once the work is complete, you can add a light application of a nipple freeze such as Loctite 638 to the head of the nipple inside the wheel just hold the spoke/wheel in tension once the work has been completed.
Please note:
Due to the nature of carbon spokes, the wheel-builder will require a specific conversion chart (see table below) to build the wheel back to the correct tension. These Tensions are done with a Park Tool TM-1 but please be aware that tensions will vary between meters but will give you a rough guide.
Due to the stiffness of the carbon spoke you will find small, minor changes will have a larger effect over the wheel than with a traditional steel spoke wheel. With this in mind, we would always suggest smaller, incremental changes when working on the wheels versus larger changes.
make sure the above is applicable if doing a rim swap. It is recommended to clean all the threads on the spoke to make sure they are clean of any previous nipple freeze before fitting to a new rim.
KGF TO PT TM-1 |
|
|
|
H-S-SP-CRB3212-SPL |
| H-S-SP-CRB3314-SPL |
|
KGF | TM-1 | KGF | TM-1 |
80 | 17 | 80 | 17.5 |
85 | 17.5 | 85 | 18 |
90 | 18 | 90 | 18 |
95 | 19 | 95 | 19 |
100 | 19 | 100 | 19 |
105 | 20 | 105 | 19 |
110 | 21 | 110 | 20 |
115 | 21 | 115 | 20 |
120 | 21 | 120 | 20 |
125 | 21.5 | 125 | 21 |
130 | 22 | 130 | 21 |
135 | 22 | 135 | 22 |
140 | 23 | 140 | 22 |
145 | 24 | 145 | 22 |
Disclaimer
The wheel-building procedure should only be carried out by professionally trained mechanics with their own public liability or other appropriate insurance in place, and entirely at their own risk.
Any individual carrying out the wheel building procedure is solely liable for the building and/or rebuilding of any wheel and should ensure that they follow the guidance and safety instructions carefully so as not to hurt or injure themselves or others.
Hunt Bike Wheels shall have no liability to any individual using this wheel building specification document in relation to the building and/or rebuilding of any wheel, except where caused by Hunt Bike Wheels’s negligence.